Fiat Lux
Two quick food & cooking related notes from the past weekend:
1) We’ve made the Roasted Tomato & Fennel soup recipe we came up with several times over the past few months, always to great acclaim. As a follow-up, Scott decided to try a new version of the recipe with a medley of roasted root vegetables (carrot, parsnip, and turnip, plus a leek and some garlic cloves). We weren’t sure whether beef of chicken stock would go better in this version, so we did a split-test and did half-batches in separate pots with the different stocks. The result was tasty, but not quite as successful as the tomato-fennel version. We’ll try again with some other combinations in the not too distant future.
2) We saw Ratatouille. I share Ruhlman’s highly positive take on the piece — with one caveat. My feminist funnybone got dinged by the fact that the movie was set up so that Remy the rat ALWAYS knew better than Colette when it came to food. She’s presented as a highly talented line cook who worked her butt off to get where she was. Couldn’t she be right at least once?
Just in time for the 4th of July — Jason and a crew of dedicated hot dog fans have survived The Great Off The Broiler Hot Dog Tasting of 2007 and come up with a set of recommendations.
Worth a read.
It’s about time somebody in Congress proposed something like this: the Food Safety Act of 2007.
Currently, 12 federal agencies and 35 laws govern food safety, often with overlapping jurisdictions and different priorities.
The U.S. Department of Agriculture and the U.S. Food and Drug Administration play the biggest roles in making sure the food Americans eat is safe. The USDA oversees meat and poultry, while the FDA is responsible for eggs and produce.
The lines are not always clear-cut. For example, cheese pizzas fall under the FDA, while pepperoni pizzas fall under the Department of Agriculture.
In January, the Government Accountability Office added federal oversight of food safety to its list of “high risk” programs in need of “broad-based transformation.” The GAO urged Congress to consider “a fundamental re-examination of the system … before public health and safety is compromised.”
Critics point to the FDA, in particular, as needing reform. The FDA oversees 80 percent of the food supply but receives only 20 percent of the funding.
But would Bush sign it?
No, not the Ruhlman book. Anthony Bourdain’s inimitable style has extended into the web comic world. Check out yesterday’s Dork Tower.
For an upcoming dinner party, Scott wanted to start with a dish we really enjoyed when we had it last year at a local restaurant: roasted tomato and fennel soup. Today, we set out to replicate it. February probably isn’t the best time of year to be trying recipes that depend heavily on the freshness and quality of its vegetables, but we’re lucky enough to live three blocks from a fantastic market where you can get top-quality, fresh produce year-round. The results were an unqualified success, and the dish is quite easy to pull off. We’re definitely serving this to our guests next week.
I’m sorry to say that some of the measurements and cooking times given below are my best approximation, not exact. This was a seat of the pants operation done by people who know their way around a kitchen. However, this is a soup, not a soufflé, and as long as you don’t burn anything the end result should turn out just fine. When in doubt, let common sense and your taste buds be your guide.
Ingredients:
1 1/4 lbs heirloom tomatoes
1 bulb fennel (about 3/4 lb)
4 cloves garlic
2 cups chicken stock
1/4 cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons kosher salt
Preparation:
First, we cut off the leaves and fronds from the fennel, de-seeded the tomatoes, arranged the cut pieces on foil-covered trays, sprinkled all the pieces with oil and salt, and then roasted the fennel and tomatoes in a 375 degree oven for 50 minutes. The garlic cloves were left in their skins, wrapped in a separate piece of tin foil, and roasted at the same time.
Next, everything (except the garlic skins) went into the blender, along with the chicken stock, and pureed. This puree went through a medium-mesh strainer and heated over low-medium heat for about 45 minutes to reduce. We then put the soup through a second, finer mesh strainer and reduced again for another 45 minutes or so. In went the cream, and simmered again for maybe 30 minutes.
Although straining and reducing the broth down multiple times is a trick we borrowed from Thomas Keller, it felt counterintuitive to me and I was unsure how the result would taste. The pulp sitting in the strainer tasted good, after all, and I was hesitant to toss it out. But after tasting the strained liquid in the pot, I realized that I was wrong. Straining really does clarify and intensify the flavor.
We used no additional salt other than what went onto the veggies during the roasting stage. If you feel the need to add more seasoning, I strongly recommend that you wait until you’re at the final stages to make sure you don’t overintensify the flavors as the soup reduces down.
We were unsure what was going to be better to finish off the soup, so we tried two different toppings at the end: we topped one serving with a little grated Parmigianino Reggiano and diced fennel fronds, and a second with a drizzle of black truffle oil and fennel fronds. Both were good, but the truffle oil was definitely better.
The end product was four small portions of a very intense, flavorful soup. As we’re planning on serving this as an amuse bouche at the beginning of a meal, that’s just fine. However, if you want to make this dish a more central part of the meal, you’re probably going to want to at least double the recipe.
The whole set of photos from today’s kitchen adventure is up on Flickr.